I started the process by taping the insides of the mold with duct tape. Then, after taping the mold, I joined the mold’s ends and seams together using glue. The next step was to lay the wood bark inside the mold. After arranging the bark, I drizzled a small amount of resin along the middle and edges of the bark. The point of the light pour is to ensure that the bark won’t float when the bigger resin pour happens.
After letting the first pour set up I went back and filled to mold with resin. I normally wouldn’t want to pour so much resin at once, as a normal rule for totalboat 2:1 epoxy I generally don’t pour more than a quarter inch at a time to avoid bubbles. In this particular case since I wanted the end result to look like ice I needed a deeper resin pour because pouring a large quantity of resin on the bark at once causes the resin to heat and bubbles to form, and this is what I was trying to achieve with the resin block.
After this step, I left the setup for a day. After about 24 hours, I found that the block was solidified and looked like it was covered in ice. At this point, it was time to remove the mold that surrounded the solidified block.
The top of the blck was bumpy and not very usable as a table top so I thought it would make sense to add a thinner quarter inch layer without bubbles to get a nice flat top. To ensure that the top layer of resin would bond well with the surface, I proceeded to sand the top of the solidified bark. After sanding I placed the block back into the mold and poured a final clear resin layer on the top.
Up next are the legs for the table, I used some old oak boards that I had laying around. I measured the length for table legs, cut the planks into sizes, and joined them in an L-shape. This shape would help to provide adequate rigidity and strength for the table, allowing it to carry any load placed on it sufficiently.
When calculated, it means that I used eight wood pieces cut into sizes (2 pieces to form an L-shape in four places).
To join the wood pieces in an L shape, I made slots at the seams using my biscuit joiner and used wood biscuits to join them. Since biscuits only really help to make sure that the piece is lined up I applied a liberal coat of wood glue to the seams before “clamping” them together with my brad nailer. I covered the nail holes with a colored wood putty and then used a card scrapper to remove the excess glue and blend the seam together.
After completing the legs, the next part was the top support. Using the resin’s top to measure the cross support length, I got the size of the wood I needed and cut the planks of wood accordingly. I set the cut planks at the resin block’s edges and used glue to hold the ends of the wood pieces and clamp them together while the glue dried.
After all of these processes, I went back and sanded all the wood pieces. I applied a wipe on poly as a finish. While the poly on the wooden pieces dried, I went back to the resin top and applied another finish. I didn’t worry about finishing the bottom of the block since people will not see it.
After all the finishes dried, I assembled all of the pieces and the resin ice table was built and standing.